The Ring doorbells come with their own security screw that requires a special shaped screwdriver to remove, making it more challenging for casual thieves.

Wired Ring Doorbell Installation:

• Requires existing doorbell wiring: Your home needs to have functional doorbell wiring for connection.
• Involves electrical work: You'll need to connect the doorbell wires to the Ring doorbell terminal screws. Consult a qualified electrician if you're uncomfortable with electrical work.
• Offers continuous power: You don't need to worry about recharging batteries, ensuring consistent doorbell operation.
• May require additional tools: A drill and screwdriver are typically needed for mounting and wiring connections.

Battery-Powered Ring Doorbell Installation:

• No existing wiring needed: Ideal for locations without doorbell wiring or for renters who might not want to modify the property.
• No electrical work involved: We can simply mount the doorbell and get you set up
• Requires periodic recharging: Frequency depends on motion detection activity video recording settings, battery age and the outside temperature.
• Simpler installation process: Generally easier and more cost effective to install due to the lack of electrical work.

Ring doorbell installations can be fairly simple if there is already a doorbell powered by a transformer connected to the mains, or you simply want a battery Ring doorbell installed. A wired Ring doorbell installation starts getting more complex when the current doorbell is powered by a battery box, or there is no doorbell currently there. Depending how tech savvy you may be, the actual Ring doorbell setup with your wifi, the Ring chime and the Ring app on your phone can be quite quick or may take longer.

Most council regulations don't outright require extractor fans. However, rentals must have adequate ventilation. Also, persistent damp issues like mould from lack of a fan may violate health codes. Part F (F1 & F2) of the building regulations dictate a minimum ventilation requirement for new build properties for both kitchens and kitchens, which our extractor fan systems can achieve.

A qualified electrician, HVAC engineer or extractor fan specialists are the best choice for safely running wiring and ductwork. And, of course, us at Techmeisters limited are registered electricians who specialise in extractor fans and ventilation!

If you rent, check with your landlord. For homeowners, planning permission generally isn't needed to add an internal extractor fan. However, external wall vents, especially on leasehold properties, may require approval from the freeholder and/or building control.

Extractor fans and ventilation services do start to broach into multiple disciplines, much like hot water and heating controls. And while it's always best to have a registered electrician install any fixed electrical equipment., HVAC engineers and possibly heating engineers, as well as skilled DIYers could replace or install new extractor fans themselves, but there are many rules and regulations to navigate, as well as having having the correct kit and sundries that an electrician who specialises in extractor fan installation will be geared up to this sort of work will have on hand. Read further about why our clients simply choose to use an NICEIC electrician.

In concept they can be very straightforward. But physically installing new ducting in a professional manner, cutting holes through ceilings and walls, running wiring, and mounting the unit can take some work. Having the right tools and skills makes getting it right much easier, which is why our clients just end up going for the low risk option and contracting us in to carry out the project.

Replacing an existing extractor fan is often simpler than new installations. Using the old mount, wiring, switch, and duct setup makes it an easier DIY project if you understand basic electrical connections and safety. Again, there can be nuances and rules and regulations surrounding working on electrics, especially in the bathroom, which is why our clients just end up going for the low risk option and contracting us in to carry out the project.

With proper circuit wiring know-how and some DIY building skills, some homeowners can correctly install new bathroom extractor fans on their own. We can unfortunately say that a fair chunk of in-line fans are installed particularly well. If you're unsure, hire an electrician or ventilation specialist. Again there are caveats and nuances which is why our clients just end up going for the low risk option and contracting us in to carry out the project.

Ideally, yes - it allows for shortest, most direct ducting path outdoors (which is what we like!). But fans can be installed on any bathroom walls and ducted to ceiling vents or soffit vents. Extension ducting simply starts to reduce airflow. Our inline fan systems make up for this with brute strength and can be installed in various ways and yet still maintain great performance.

The total parts and labour cost for replacing an existing bathroom extractor fan averages £120-£200 in the UK. DIY installation cuts this down to just £80-£150 for the fan itself and any electrical fittings or building supplies. Although at this sort of price, we wouldn't expect the fan to be up to the job!

To upgrade your extractor fan to something , or install our clients like in their bathrooms, or to install an extractor fan system from fresh, you could be looking at between £400-700. In general, you do get what you pay for and we're fortunate enough to have become extractor fan specialists, for standard kitchen and bathroom settings, in both residential and commercial properties in the Medway & Maidstone region.

Wifi Extenders are great for:
Extending the Wi-Fi coverage to eliminate dead zones in your home, and thus improving the internet connectivity for devices located far from the router.

Mesh Wifi networks are our favourite, because they make life so much easier and convenient for connecting to your wifi. Mesh Wifi is simply the next level up from simple Wifi Extenders - you don't have to jump from one network to the other as you move around the property, your device will seamlessly connect to the closest access point with the best connection, automatically!

• A Wi-Fi extender is a device that receives your existing Wi-Fi signal, amplifies it, and rebroadcasts it to extend the coverage area.
• It acts as a bridge between your router and areas with weak Wi-Fi signal strength.

Depending on the current setup at the property, and what you might want to achieve, we can make use of:

• Upgrading your existing router for a better spread 
• Installing Wifi extenders inside the property 
• Installing Wifi extenders outside the property, for use in the garden 
• Installing line of sight bridges to reach provide internet connections to structures at much greater distances

As already noted, and where they are so new, Airbnbs havn't always been strictly specified as a type of property requiring at least a D1 LD2 Fire Detection System. The rules are now quite clear - and for most standard properties, this consists of mains-powered, battery-backed detectors in all circulation areas (escape routes), and a heat detector in the kitchen(s). 

This is a long standing conversation, where we'd professional say no. A piece of government guidance literature has been circulating for quite some time, and is quite outdated. Don't forget, government guidance is only guidance. We'd look to the world class standard for Fire Detection and Fire Alarms, BS5839, and BS5839 clearly states, almost all properties should be looking at having D1 LD2 systems installed as a minimum. Why would anyone want to try and bypass minimum safety standards?

For a standalone residential rental, you will likely require D1 detectors, fitted in locations as specified by category LD2. That is, mains powered and battery-backed (D1) detectors will be required in all circulation areas (escape routes), and a heat detector in the kitchen (LD2 specification). For an exact specification thats tailored to meet the needs of your exact property, we highly recommend having a Fire Risk Assessment (FRA) undertaken.

We absolutely do! Our standard guarantee is 1 years labour and materials (sometimes longer for materials, if manufacturers stipulate so!), and 6 years labour for compliance issues related to our work, which is backed by an insurance policy provided by the NICEIC, our professional registration body. For a select few cherry-picked materials, we can sometimes offer longer parts AND LABOUR guarantee, too! If we're offering better guarantees beyond our standard guarantees, we put these details in your written quotes.

We can usually give a quote, or a very good idea of numbers over the phone. If we need to come and take a look, we can usually book a works discussion visit in within the week, and we can usually book works to commence in under two weeks after the quote has been accepted.

Yes, We do indeed have a minimum charge, even for the smallest of jobs. We'd love to be able to do everything for free, but unfortunately things would very quickly fall apart and you'd no longer have your friendly local electricians serving Medway & Maidstone!

• Efficiency: Small job electricians tend to be more professional and experienced
• Customer Experience: They can focus their attention more on their customers and projects. 
• Quality Of Work: They tend to gear themselves up for quality, rather than quantity
• Safety: Their expertise ensures the work is done safely and up to current standards.
• Peace of mind: Knowing a professional handled the job reduces worry about potential electrical issues.
• Saves time: You avoid the hassle and potential risks of attempting electrical work yourself.
• Calibre of contractor: Contractors who can get the majority of their work from small volume projects are generally more professional, hold more badges, and have bigger 'clout' to give you a better service.

Absolutely!  Electrical work, regardless of scale, carries potential safety hazards, amongst other risks. Hiring a qualified electrician ensures the work is done correctly, adheres to safety regulations, ensures continued guarantees and building insurance policies, and minimizes the risk of electrical fires or accidents.

This can vary depending on the electrical contractor, but generally small jobs include:

• Installing light fixtures, switches, or sockets.
• Replacing faulty outlets or switches.
• Repairing minor wiring issues.
• Adding plug sockets or dimmer switches.
• Fitting a new outside security light.
• Fixing electrical faults in light fixtures or wiring.
• Connecting new appliances that require electrical installation (e.g., cooker hoods, extractor fans).

• Ensure the lens is clean and free of debris.
• Adjust the video resolution settings in the Ring app.
• Check your internet upload speed at home and ensure you have a good connection when you're out; a slow internet speed can affect video quality

Check your Wi-Fi signal strength at the doorbell location.
Ensure you're entering the correct Wi-Fi password during setup.
Restart your Wi-Fi router and doorbell.
Consult Ring's support resources or contact their customer service for further assistance.

Ring Doorbells are designed to be easily installed by a DIYer, especially the battery versions. If you want low risks and less headaches, however, you may also consider using a professional tradesperson familiar with the kit.

Battery Ring Doorbells can have a much lower cost for installation. They could even be done by a DIY enthusiast! The compromise is simply convenience - and the higher running cost of replacing the battery (and the security screw you keep dropping!) Make an enquiry with us to come and see how close you might actually be to having a wired doorbell.

Of course! Just because we're Ring professional Programme accredited doesn't mean we solely provide Ring doorbell installation services. Having said that - if you ask us our preference, we'd likely say go for Ring - and if we're supplying the doorbell, we're very likely to go for Ring, simply because of its track record for good quality and longevity.

For certain particular models that have a track record for lasting in the elements outdoors, yes, we do extend our guarantees for both parts and labour, for up to 3 years (industry standard is one year).

If something inside the fusebox is tripping, there's probably a good reason why. And it's very likely a safety concern. Turn off the circuit breaker and don't use the light. A potential short circuit or overload could be present. Contact a qualified electrician to identify and fix the issue to avoid further damage or electrical fire hazards.

• Loose bulb connection
• Faulty connection in the wiring
• If its an LED floodlight, the fitting is likely faulty
• A qualified electrician can diagnose the cause and recommend a solution.

Several factors could be at fault:
Blown bulb (check first!)
Faulty switch
Tripped circuit breaker
Moisture damage in the light fixture (quite likely)
Issues with the electrical wiring
Faulty motion sensor
Faulty light (quite likely)
It's important to consult a qualified electrician to diagnose the problem safely, especially if it involves electrical components.

We can guide you to a variety of lights which might fit the bill - are they more for decorative or mood lighting purposes? Do you need floodlights so you can see? Would you like them to come on in the darkness for the entire night or only when someone walks past?

In some cases, yes. While simple bulb replacements might be manageable for DIY enthusiasts, electrical wiring for new outdoor lights, should always be done by a qualified electrician. This ensures correct functionality, longer life, safety compliance and avoids potential hazards. This is even more apparent for lights that are not going on the walls of the property, and where cables and joints are being buried in the garden.

• We can wire up new heating controls into a wiring centre - this includes S plan, Y plan, and Underfloor heating manfiolds
• We can fault find S plan, Y plan, and underfloor heating systems
• We can maintain and replace electrical parts of the control system eg thermostats, wiring centres, solar supplies and energy diverters, timers, etc
• We can narrow problems down to wet (plumbing, plant) parts of the control system eg immersion heaters, pumps, valves, gas boilers, and point you in the direction of recommended heating engineers who deal with the kind of problem you have
• We can install undersink water heaters, and we can install and maintain electric-only hot water and heating systems.

A general rule of thumb:
For a brand new installation - it's an electrician's job.
For maintenance and replacement of plant ie valves, pumps, immersion heaters, cylinders, its a plumber's / heating engineer's job
For fault finding, if something's not working as it should, your best bet is to use an electrician to narrow the problem down, then a plumber to change the part (if its part of the plant), if required.
Hot water and heating controls are generally a bit of a grey area between the two distinctive disciplines and requires a tradesman who specialises in one, but has good experience in the other, to carry out these works.
 

Our favourite extractor systems tend to live up in the loft, so really the only part of the entire ventilation system you see is a pretty looking chrome (or white) cover on the ceiling.

We don't charge emergency call out fees per se, but we do charge a rush fee if your problem can not wait til our next officially available slot. Rush Fees are allocated to compensate for: Dropping the project we're doing and getting ready to attend an unexpected booking, and then picking the project work we were meant to be doing out of normal working time.

An electrical emergency is any situation that poses a potential risk to safety or property damage. This includes:
Sparks or burning smells coming from electrical outlets, switches, or appliances.
Frequent tripping of circuit breakers or blown fuses.
Complete loss of power in your home or business (if you've checked the fusebox and nothing is tripped).
Exposed or damaged wiring.
Tingling sensation when touching electrical appliances or switches (potential shock hazard).

An electrician carrying out emergency works will do their best to make the situation better - that usually means at least making the installation safe, or safer, than when it was found. At the very least, they'll be able to diagnose and/or give you the option to isolate the affected parts. Depending on the property location, day of the week, and time of day, your emergency electrician may have limited resources i.e when suppliers are shut, and will make do with the kit and equipment he has available.

In the past 18 months or so, we've noticed sellers coming to us for a lastminute.com EICR because the seller has asked for one, usually a few days or weeks leading up to the selling date. We tell our clients this: To avoid the extra stress, tell the buyer well ahead of time to commission their own EICR, with an electrician on their own choosing, that way there is no chance of this being dropped in your lap at the final hour, and there is no come back on you at a later date.

If you're purchasing the property, we thoroughly recommend having at least a standard EICR performed at the property, to highlight any present, and potential future issues. You could then opt to have a more thorough one conducted once the property is in your name.

As already mentioned, we don't like to do our EICRs in half measures. You can expect us to be looking at your property for a minimum of 3 hours. Depending on the size and complexity of the property, this could be more.
For Commercial sites, this might turn into days, or over a longer period if we are going in out of hours.

Incorrect, Outdated, or poorly functioning protective devices: Designed to protect you and your home from shocks and fires.
Outdated wiring: Older homes might have wiring that doesn't meet current safety standards.
Overloaded circuits: Too many appliances plugged into one circuit can pose a fire risk.
Earthing faults: Issues with earthing can increase the risk of electric shock.
Damaged or loose wiring: This can be a fire hazard and should be addressed immediately.
Faulty electrical fittings: Worn-out sockets, switches, or light fittings should be replaced for safety.

An EICR is essentially a health check on the electrics, and involves dismantling some of the installation (sockets, lights, fusebox, etc) to ascertain the condition and safety, and its suitability for continued use. For more information, check out our blog titled: What does an electrician do on an EICR?

You may need an EICR conducted if you own a property or premises that has an electrical installation - which most do. Although landlords and employers HAVE to have an EICR, we would argue everyone should have an EICR at regular intervals to keep on the safe side of BS7671, the electricity at work Act, and, of course, HSE (who carry a big hammer of the law and can swing it very hard).

While some DIY enthusiasts might attempt it,  electrical expertise is crucial for safe and proper installation. We strongly recommend hiring a qualified electrician to avoid potential hazards and ensure optimal performance. Especially when you risk losing your manufacturer's guarantee, and once it's been laid and tiled over, that's an awful lot of expense to rectify a problem.

You might notice some uneven heating in the flooring (ie, cold spots), which might indicate issues with the installation (e.g., incorrect cable spacing) or faulty heating elements. Consult a qualified electrician for inspection.

Several factors could be at fault:

Tripped circuit breaker or malfunctioning thermostat.
Faulty heating element or connection issue.
Damaged temperature sensor. A qualified electrician can diagnose the problem.

Absolutely! Electric UFH systems involve electrical wiring and altering floor structures.  Qualified electricians ensure safe and compliant installation, and will make sure you don't void any manufacturer's guarantees. You will likely want a professional flooring tradesman, such as a professional tiler, to carry out the flooring part of this job, too.

Electric Underfloor heating is useful as a standalone area heater when you don't otherwise have - a wet manifold present, or the rest of house doesn't or won't have any more underfloor heating, and typically get used when they provide maximum benefits: in tiled upstairs bathrooms and other small - medium tiled downstairs areas, such as kitchens.

Benefits of electric underfloor heating includes:
Provides comfortable and even heat distribution throughout the room.
Energy-efficient and can lower heating bills in well-insulated homes.
Offers greater control over room temperature compared to traditional heating systems.
Works well with various floor coverings (consult a professional for compatibility).

The dimmer switch might be faulty or overloaded.
Solutions: Check the bulb wattage doesn't exceed the dimmer's maximum rating. If overloaded, reduce bulb wattage or install a higher-rated dimmer. There is such as thing as underloaded, especially if you've recently changed over to LED lamps. If neither of these are the case, consider replacing the dimmer switch.

This is a common issue, especially with older dimmers or incompatible LED bulbs.
Solutions: Try using LED-compatible dimmers or dimming LED bulbs specifically designed for dimming.

If your dimmer is buzzing, it likely doesn't have the correct load matched to it (This can happen when you switch over the LED bulbs with particularly older dimmers) or if it may just be that the dimmer isn't a great quality product.

If your electric shower is quite old (10+ years?), or you live in an area with particularly hard water, it is likely there's sufficient limescale build up inside the electric shower that it will no longer work as expected and will require replacing.

Any unusual noises coming from your electric shower warrant attention. It could indicate loose components, limescale buildup, or a more serious internal issue. Consult an electrician for inspection.

Several factors could be at fault: tripped circuit breaker or RCD, a faulty or burnt, isolation switch (likely), internal electrical issue within the shower unit (also quite likely). It's important not to attempt repairs yourself and consult a qualified electrician.

Consider factors like your desired water flow rate, the power rating (KW), the size of the cable you already have, shower head style, and additional features (digital controls, eco settings).

With the assumption being every electric shower we've seen (besides Aqualiser) have been in zone 1 of the bathroom, you would want a qualified electrician undertaking the work, 1) To ensure the safety of the shower where you're bringing mains voltage in close proximity to water and 2) so they can sign off their work and notify building control.

It's not very often our dimmers don't work fantastically. We probably have a 95% success rate when we fit our dimmers, which gets the full range of dim that we know, love and share on our videos. Make sure your light fitting / bulbs are in fact dimmable, and we'll do the rest.

It may well be an easy fix! It sometimes might require a replacement part, potentially a return visit. It may require a bit of rewiring if the cable is chewed, damaged, or we can't get to the faulty part. Sometimes we're able to isolate to faulty part if it isn't very important to you e.g a garden light that never gets used. We'll always try to keep the power on as best we can til the part is fixed. Sometimes, if the fix is outside our scope of service, we might recommend a service provider better suited to your needs to follow up behind us and complete the project.

Unfortunately, fault finding is one of the only open ended services we provide. And it is one of the most demanding services an electrician can carry out. It's usually both physically demanding, and mentally demanding. Generally, we say we can find 65% of faults within an hour, 85% of faults within 2, and once it gets to 2 hours we'll report back because 1) It's being a nightmare to find and 2) We want to start looking at other alternatives such as rewiring the affected part, or breaking and downgrading the ring, for example. For more information on some our stickiest fault finding projects, please see here.

A light tingling or buzzing feeling you might get from metal switches, lights, or metalwork just at kitchen sinks, pipes, or water out of your taps & shower may be down to lack of, or improper, earthing, and should be investigated with the seriousness of a C1 fault.

A PIV fan is a general-ventilation system that often sits in the loft, with a vent on your landing. A PIV pushes fresh air into the property, which forces the moisture laden air out of the property, before it gets the chance to absorb more moisture and condense on a cold surface, such as a window or external wall. In layman's terms, Positive Input Ventilation is achieved when you push fresh air from outside the property, into the property.

Condensation is the 'wet' surfaces you'll find in your property, normally on cold surfaces such as windows, walls and ceiling. This is caused by moisture-laden air floating around your property touching these cold surfaces, and being relieved of the moisture content in the process known as condensing.

If you are suffering from general condensation, with the most obvious tell-tales being: Wet windows in the morning, wet glazing of tiles after a bath or shower, and the same again when cooking, you could benefit from better ventilation. If you also happen to suffer from mould in these areas, you certainly should be looking to improve your ventilation.

Most modern wired CCTV systems run on CAT6 data wiring (think internet cables). 

We can do wireless CCTV, but sometimes the installation cost of getting power to your cameras may outweigh the installation cost of a wired CCTV system.

We offer cameras with a resolution of 5MP and 4K (8MP), dependant on your budget. We will always try to recommend better resolution cameras because there will always be that one image you could have done with being that little bit more clearer.

Yes, Our CCTV systems are internet-ready and can be viewed remotely ie on your phone, as long as you have a good internet connection. We help you set this up on your phone as part of our installation service. 

This can get a wee bit technical, but in a standard bathroom, but a very easy way of telling what might be in the zone: 
Zone 2 - If you can stand in the bath, shower, or spa etc, and reach out the furthest you can, that is likely to be inside zone 2. 
Zone 1 - The footprint of your bath / shower enclosure, up to a height of 2250mm from the floor, or higher if your shower head happens to be higher. 
Zone 0  - Inside the part of the shower enclosure or bath that can hold water. Generally the full height of the bath or the full height of the shower tray (couple of inches). You can get a better visual representation of the zones elsewhere.

Although not everything in the bathroom might sit in the zones of the special location, electrical accessories, and current using equipment, and any part of the electrical installation that runs through these special locations do. These will need signing off by a Part P electrician. And if we're honest, if you're having work done on electrics in the bathroom, you're best off asking a Part P electrician to do them, even if they don't strictly require Part P notification.

Generally, we only have the power off for up to 3 hours on any one day - sometimes much less. We're able to do this by one - doing the health checks on electrics in preparation of the fuseboard upgrade, mitigating risks by fixing issues between the health check and the upgrade, but also we usually book these on different days, giving us loads of time to prepare for the big day.

We first perform a health check on your electrics to make sure your current installation is safe and will be accepted by one of our new super-protective fuseboxes. If there are small problems we fix them along the way. If there's something that needs quite a bit done, we'll quote and book the works separately. We'll then book you in for the fuseboard upgrade itself, generally on a different day, where we'll safely isolator the power, remove the old board, and install the new consumer unit.

Yes, by defeating the root cause ie condensation in a property, we'll be stopping the consistent moisture buildup that allows black mould to grow in places like on tiles, in tile grout, on silicone, on external walls, on windows, window surrounds and ceilings. To see if we can help, get in touch.

In terms of building security, points of entry, field of view and camera placements, yes we do carry out lightweight Security assessments as part of our works discussion package. If you require 360 security assessments, to include property, vehicles, and cyber threats, we can also do that as part of a multidisciplinary approach.

While we do know our way around a heating system, and can certainly help with the electrical controls such as wiring pumps, thermostats, wiring centres, etc, we leave the wet part to the experts. If you need a local & reliable plumbing and heating firm, we openly send our clients to Southway Plumbing and Heating, who we've worked with on many projects in the past, based in West Malling, Maidstone

We believe in being the best, and having EICRs as our number 1 specialist service, we take pride in what we bring to the table for our customers. Commissioning us to undertake one of our Techmeisters Tests means all lights switches, sockets and other switches come off the wall, and all lights are checked. As are cooker supplies, showers and the rest. We try our best to not only check, but update and improve your electrical installation to the point it's as good as it can be since it was last re-wired. Find out more here.

We fit only the best fuseboxes available, giving you extra safety protection, as well as convenience in the event of a fault, eg, when an RCD trips, you do not lose power to the entire house!

We can sign off Fuse Box Upgrades! being NICEIC (Part P) Registered, we have direct access to building control so we can sign our work off, hassle free.

Nobody wakes up one day and says, "I need extra ventilation", without good reason. Ventilation systems are usually ordered to solve a problem, or to prevent a problem before it occurs. We can fix condensation throughout a property, poor ventilation and removing bad smells in kitchens and w/cs - we can't fix water ingress, leaks or rising damp with ventilation alone.

We believe in conducting thorough EICRs and not just tickling the electrical installation. This is all about how many resources you want to throw and maintaining and monitoring the installation to ensure it is safe. We tend to charge from £650 for conducting our thorough EICRs on standard properties up to a 3 bed semi. We must warn clients not to go cheap when they order EICRs.

We try to answer the phone on the button inside Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. For emails, you can expect a response generally within 48 hours, and quotes are generally with you, in your emails, within a week of the quotation visit.

Your friendly local electricians DO provide electrical certificates, including part P for building control notification, where applicable.

You can contact your friendly local electricians on 01634 218 821 (Medway) or 01622 277 321 (Maidstone), or alternatively you can email info@techmeisters.co.uk or fill out the enquiry form on this website.

Your friendly local electricians mainly serve Medway & Maidstone, but you can find us as far flung as Dartford, Canterbury, Ashford, Tunbridge Wells, and Sevenoaks. We generally do not operate outside of these areas of Kent.

Although we don't openly advertise our clients details for potential clients to contact, we do have enough of a raving fan base to know we could get plenty of references for our previous work, if required. We do also have our testimonials section - 95% of which do come from Google reviews on our business page.

We cover all lightweight Commercial (Business) premises types, such as offices, shops, warehouses, hospitality and small manufacturing / fabrication workshop businesses.

For more information on what we've done, please visit our commercial electrical services section of the website.

That is quite a hard question to answer. A fully fledged electrical contractor which holds all the badges, provides a glowing service, with a good track record, great pillars of service, and a guarantee that presents low risk to the client, will have rates that reflect accordingly, in comparison to maybe a side hustle electrician, or an electrical sub-contractor, which may offer more risk to the client. To get a better idea about what your project may cost, feel free to contact your friendly local electricians serving Medway & Maidstone for a no obligation works discussion visit!

We most certainly are qualified electricians! When you work with us, you will benefit from choosing electricians with: The relevant City & Guilds qualifications, registration with the UK's leading professional electrical body (NICEIC) which means you get Part P registered electricians who hold appropriate insurance policies in order to carry out their work. For more information, please read towards the back of our Portfolio PDF document.

The only real way of telling whether your electrics are completely safe is by having a thorough health check on the electrics (EICR) carried out by an experienced electrician. We specialise in these - please find out more here.

We offer electrical services to both residential (Part P) and commercial (business premises). To see which electrical services we provide, please see our services page.